We sat down with our Marketing and Content Manager at InStitchu, Tim “Slim” Casey, to chat through the impeccably unique details on his latest custom, tailored corduroy suit—from the fabric, to the lining, to the waist and lapels, Tim breaks it down as he takes us through the design options he chose and why.
The Fabric: “I wanted something really wintery and unique. Obviously a part of my job is meeting customers, partners and press, and within that role I want to showcase what you can create from scratch with our made-to-measure custom offering. I chose a really distinct honey/beige corduroy fabric. It’s got a little bit of stretch to it so it’s really functional, it’s super warm for colder months, and it’s a really high quality cotton corduroy fabric - it’s from a superb Italian mill called Carlo Bonomi. It’s not something you’ll see a lot of on the streets, and that’s a bit of a prerequisite for me when I’m looking for something new.”
The Waist: “I chose a double button finish, so there’s no side adjusters or belt loops. I suppose I’m lucky that my weight doesn’t fluctuate very much, so I can choose a waist finish that will work for the next year, but if you do go up and down a bit, it’s probably worth looking at side tabs or belt loops, so you don’t need to adjust later. I chose a single pleat finish, which I think lends to the vintage charm of cord trousers.”
The Cuff: “It’s a personal choice but I always prefer a cuffed trouser. These ones have an aggressive 4cm cuff, which I think looks really intentional and thought out. They finish a little higher, just above the ankle without being silly, so I can wear with or without socks, depending on the season or shoes.”
The Lapel: “I always go for a wide notch lapel for my casual suits. It’s a bit more custom-oriented than something off the rack, and pairs well with an open collar shirt, a tie, or even with a tee and jeans.”
The Structure: “I chose a half-lined construction. It’s a pretty warm fabric so I didn't need too much extra warmth, but I wanted to lend some structure to the suit. I’m a slimmer guy so having some shape to the structure of my suit is always preferable.”
The Pockets: “It’s meant to be a casual suit so I chose patch pockets. My little vanity touch was a ticket pocket, also patched on, on the right side - it’s a new feature we offer and it’s definitely just a little flourish which hammers home that it’s a custom suit, rather than something you’ve bought off the rack.
The Lining: “I went with a rather simple gold tone, which matches the colour of the suit. I often go a little out there with the lining but considering how vibrant this fabric is, I wanted to pair the lining back. You’ll notice I got my name in brown embroidered on the inside of the jacket. Again, probably a little cherry on top, but it does help stop your mates from running away with your jacket on a big night.”