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InStitchu's Guide to Designing A Summer Suit

18 November, 2017

With the warmer summer months approaching, InStitchu knows the inevitable suffering the Australian male can experience through December to February. So in our new range of fabrics, we aimed to make a host of changes to let our customers create lighter weight and less structured suits to help beat the heat.

See below the various ways to tailor your InStitchu suit to help you stay cool this summer.

Jacket Structure & Design

Often overlooked and not thought about. Designing the correct jacket structure for the use of the jacket can ensure you don't over heat between walking to meetings.

Shoulders

Starting at the shoulders, InStitchu offers a design detail for deciding whether you want shoulder padding or not. A high majority of all off-the-rack suits in Australia are sold which a varying degree of shoulder padding. This helps position the suit on the shoulders, create a silhouette and a casual drape over the torso. Many men however, have shoulders that don't require the padding on the suit. The padding, while sometimes minimal, alters the jacket structure and weight significantly. The extra weight and thickness on the shoulders can easily trap the heat in your jacket.

Lining

The next area InStitchu can help out heat regulation is our new lining range and lining options. InStitchu offers full, half, one third and one quarter linings. I personally opt for one of the latter two. The removal of a lining results in the suit having only a single layer of fabric against your back, greatly increasing breathability and the weight of the jacket. However, InStitchu's new range of linings are 100% Bemburg. Bemburg is made from cotton linter and has fine, circular cross-section filaments. This results in a soft drape, closely replicable of silk. Bemberg has superior moisture control (absorption and subsequent release) along with higher anti-static properties compared to other common suit lining fabrics. This small change will result in greater comfort of wearing your tailored InStitchu suit in the hotter months.

Vents

The jacket vents can seem a trivial design detail. No vents is often reserved for formal jackets such as a black tie tuxedo jacket. The single-vent gained popularity in England with Tweed jackets and carried through to the traditional American sack suit. The single-vent appeared neater than a twin vent when riding a horse. The Italian's were the first to adopt a twin vent as common practice. The twin vent, for obvious reasons, opens the jacket ventilation up a notch from the single vent.

Fabric Type & Weight

We have sourced a wide variety of fabrics for our new range including 100% Australian Merino wools and wool/linen compositions in a variety of weights from 220 g/m to 285 g/m and super's from 100 - 140. Wool has long been touted as the ideal suit fabric for it's mixture of durability, quality and heat control properties. My recommendation for the hotter months would be a 220g/m to 250 g/m super 120's wool in a lighter shade like charcoal fabrics #15 & #16.

Fabric 40 is a superb vibrant blue 73%/27% wool/linen composition in super 130's that will create a distinctive and striking summer time work suit or casual weekend blazer.

Try designing your own online or call (02) 9222 2801 to organise a fitting in our Sydney our Melbourne showrooms with a style consultant.

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