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The English Suit Cut: Origins and How to Replicate It

24 July, 2017

In the mid 19th century, skilled tailors were attracted to Savile Row in Mayfair given the high concentration of wealthy residents. Mainly surgeons and officers in the British military resided there. As word spread of the quality, the wealthy from everywhere flocked in for a Savile Row Tailored suit.

The British cut is characterised by its narrower and defined shoulders with a higher cut armhole, this design results in slimmer sleeves. The twin back vents originated from heavy equestrian days as the twin vents allowed the mid section to sit better when horse riding.

Another key difference is in construction; the English cut is a structured jacket. It has lower gorge lines (the seam joining the collar and the lapel), the chest canvass is heavier duty and the shoulders are thickly padded. The suit cloth generally is of a heavier fabric given the climate in which the tailoring style originated.

The trousers are cut with a high waist, hemmed at the bottom and are predominantly pleated; they are a more fitted shape over their American counterpart. This combination results in a much more fitted and contoured suit cut on ones body compared to the American sack suit. Men of 'average' build generally prefer the English cut compared to the baggy or super slim fits of the American and Italian cut respectively.

How to Design your English Cut Suit

  • Choose from single or double breasted

  • Select 'normal' shoulders (padded shoulders)

  • Regular notch lapel with single flap pockets

  • Twin back vents

  • Full lining

  • Pleated & hemmed pants

You can add a bespoke touch with pick stitching, functional buttons on the sleeve, coloured felt under your lapel and coloured button stitching.

Body Measurements

Try taking a few centimeters off your waist and arm width measurements to get the contour the English suit cut is famous for.

InStitchu's Suitable Fabrics

InStitchu carries a range of heavier wool fabrics that are perfect to recreate a heavier and structured type garment similar to the British cut. Try our range of Wool Tweed (fabrics 72-75) or our super 120's wool charcoal herringbone would craft an eye-catching fitted suit.

Design your own today online or make an appointment for a traditional tailoring expereince at one of our luxurious, old-world showrooms.

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