Our Guide To The Tailored Tuxedo
When And How To Wear And Design A Tuxedo
Our Guide On How To Wear And Design A Tuxedo
From classic to modern, learn how to create a custom, tailored tuxedo for every occasion and climate—allow us to guide you—from lapels, to collars, to the perfect fit for your body shape, we break it down to the detail to have you looking your best.
WHAT MAKES A TUXEDO A TUXEDO
When you’re designing a tuxedo, the devil is in the detail. The primary difference between a suit and a classic tuxedo is the presence of satin—on the lapels, pocket trim, buttons and trousers stripe. Your style is largely defined by your jacket, and while picking one might sound simple enough there’s a lot you need to pay attention to when putting together your look.
The Lapel
The Notch Lapel
The most common and versatile of the three, and most commonly worn in the corporate world, the notch lapel is best for single-breasted tuxedos. Suitable for all body types, slim notch lapels will tend to flatter and maintain the proportions of a frame that is slimmer. As a guideline, we recommend avoiding wearing a notch lapel to a more formal black tie occasion.
The Shawl Lapel
The shawl lapel is characterised by a rounded edge and most commonly seen on dinner jackets and tuxedos. Customise your garment with a shawl lapel if you are heading to a red carpet, wedding or formal black tie event. This lapel is suitable for most body types, however can work against those with an extremely rounded face—for the men without the strong jawlines, opt for a peak or notch lapel instead.
The Peak Lapel
Peak lapels are just as they sound, characterised with edges that “peak” upward toward your face. The peak lapel takes a seat in being more fashion-forward and was originally sported on tailcoats and morning coats. It can add a slimming effect, and for those who wish to add the illusion to height, the points of a peak lapel can create an elongating effect. The peak lapel has since become a defining feature of a tuxedo suit.
Traditional Tuxedo Colours
Black
Midnight Navy Blue
White or Cream
Australian Merino Wool
A traditional and classic fabric to choose when designing your tuxedo is Australian Merino wool—a natural fibre that is reactive to body temperature (meaning it will keep you cool when it’s hot and warm when it’s cold), soft, and durable. All our wool fabrics are Woolmark certified, 100% Australian Merino wool—the hallmark of quality.
Smooth Like Velvet
One of the earliest adopted tuxedo fabrics, plush velvet adds rich texture to your look. Be bold and opt for maroon velvet or stick to tradition with black or midnight navy velvet (whilst still making a statement). If you do decide to go for velvet, we recommend pairing a velvet jacket with Australian Merino wool pants with a satin stripe.
Luxurious Linen
The less traditional fabric choice for a tuxedo is linen—revered for its breath-ability it is perfect for formal occasions in warmer climates. Our lightweight linens come in an abundance of shades, making them the perfect fabric for your next outdoor wedding or garden party.
The Tuxedo Shirt
A carefully chosen tuxedo shirt says a lot more about your style than you may think, acting as the blank canvas that lets your custom, tailored suit and accessories shine.
1. The Collar
The Wing Tip Collar Tuxedo Shirt
The most formal, classic and traditional tuxedo shirt collar option, the winged tip collar is designed to be worn with a bow-tie. The wings of the collar will be up-right naturally and you don’t need to try to tuck them down.
The Spread Collar Tuxedo Shirt
Spread collars are the most versatile tuxedo shirt collar, suitable to pair with either a tie or bow-tie depending on your style and how formal the occasion is.
The Cutaway Collar
The cutaway collar is the perfect modern twist to traditional attire. It is considered more formal than a spread collar that has wider collar points that angle outwards rather than downwards, great for those with slim or long faces.
2. Front Details
Plain with Studs
Simple, minimal and clean—for those who are wanting to fly slightly under the radar. We recommend wearing with black button studs to complete the formal look, or if you’re not a fan, we suggest choosing a fly front to cover the buttons for a complete, formal look.
The Pleated Bib
The pleated tuxedo bib shirt is just as it sounds with pleats down the front of the shirt on the bib. The pleats are made from the shirt fabric itself so will match perfectly. We recommend wearing with black button studs to complete the formal look, or if you’re not a fan, we suggest choosing a fly front to cover the buttons for a complete, formal look.
The Pique Bib
The pique bib tuxedo shirt is named after the pique, dimpled style pattern, usually woven onto the front bib. Like the pleated bib, we recommend wearing with black button studs or a fly front to cover the buttons for a complete, formal and polished look.
3. Tuxedo Shirt Cuffs
Square French Cuff
A square French cuff has (just as it sounds) a square, angular finish and is the more commonly chosen cuff finishing for a tuxedo shirt. A French cuff is a more formal finish, rolled back and held in place by cufflinks.
Hexagonal French Cuff
A French cuff is a classic choice for a tuxedo shirt. The hexagonal cuff considered the more dressy and elegant, and like the square French cuff, it is held in place by cufflinks.
Neapolitan Button Cuff
The perfect compromise—if you prefer buttons over cufflinks, the Neapolitan button cuff is the formal option.
The Pants - Side Tabs and Satin Stripes
Traditional tuxedo pants have an additional satin side stripe running down the length of the leg on the outer side of the pants. Although the satin stripe down the leg is traditional, you can go without and still be just as formal - it’ll mean you can get more versatility of your trouser, as you’re able to wear them with other separates outfits.
Another custom feature we recommend adding to your pant design is the popular side-tab. When a pair of pants fits you perfectly, there is no need to wear a belt and side tabs provide for a more polished, classic finish.
The Shoes
When it comes to pairing shoes with your formal suit, think less is more. For a formal finish, we recommend a patent leather style lace dress shoe to complete your look. The shine on this style of shoe will work in harmony with the shine of your formal suit’s satin lapels and pant stripes.
Shop Our accessories
Pocket Square
The trusted white pocket square is a perfect and necessary finishing touch for a traditional and classic style. For wool or velvet we recommend either a silk or cotton white pocket square, for linen we recommend a matching linen pocket square.
Shop
Cufflinks
If you choose French cuffs on your shirt, to finish a classic look, we recommend pairing with classic, simple cufflinks that match your other jewelry. However, if you want to add a subtle touch of your personality, your cufflinks are a good opportunity to do so.
Shop
Neck-Ties & Bow-Ties
Choose a bow-tie or neck-tie that is consistent with your lapels. A satin lapel should be matched traditionally with either a satin finish bow-tie or neck-tie.
ShopShop Our Tuxedos
Perfect Fit Guarantee
All orders are covered by our Perfect Fit Guarantee whereby in the unlikely event that your garment is anything but perfectly fitted, we will alter or remake your garment for free, ensuring you walk away completely satisfied.
